September 28

The midmorning temperature is 63 degrees under sunny skies as I turn west off Isabella County’s Britton Rd., onto a 2-track, drive for a ¼ mile along a powerline easement, park and walk another 100 yards to view the Pine River as it converges with Pony Creek. This creek is one of 20 tributaries included in the 425 square mile Pine River watershed. Midstream, I spot a large irrigation pipe hooked to a pump. There are several of these along this river system, supposedly sanctioned by the state DEQ, permitting farmers to draw out millions of gallons of water and raising questions about the long-term impact of such practices. From the bank, I follow the river down stream where I come upon several mature Musclewood trees with their fluted and tight bark resembling muscle tissue, hence the name. This slow-growing understory tree is also called Blue Beech or American hornbeam. The name “hornbeam” derives from its extremely hard wood that takes a “horn-like” polish and was once used by early Americans to make bowls and ox yokes. The “beam” in hornbeam refers to the beam of wood that separated the ox bows. Also, the strength of the wood and resistance to cracking makes it a useful for toolmaking, such as axe handles. Pausing again to take in the surroundings, I notice some signs of early autumn, including a maple leaf at my feet, Virginia Creeper leaves on the far shore as well as a few fallen leaves being carried downstream. Other signs of the season include dying bracken fern fronds, bright red stems(pedicels) on a Gray Dogwood shrub and a few ripe Autumn Olive berries (Autumn berries) that I pick and eat. Not only is the fruit edible but it is also rich in vitamins A, C, and E. While most people know Autumn Olive is highly invasive, some realize that using the berries for sauces and jam requires boiling the berries, killing the seeds thus reducing its spread. This method of control is much more adaptive than dousing it with herbicides. Continuing to explore the landscape, I notice a Bumblebee feeding on Aster blossoms and a Honeybee feeding on Goldenrod blossoms. Just ahead, I come upon some unripe fruit of both Ground Cherry (Husk Tomatoes) and never-before-seen, American Beautyberry. Before heading back, I make my way over to the edge of Pony Creek to take in the sights and sounds. Finally, back to the car for my trip home where I pass a few horse-drawn buggies and several large Amish farms that often include lumbermills. This Old Order Amish settlement that began in1983 when families moved to the area from Ohio grew to 60 families by 2014.

Tell me your secrets

River of worth

What tales untold

Meandering earth

What of your water

Is it toxic or clean

Can flora thrive

Can fish convene

What of autumn

Now on display

Do aspens and maples

Color your way

 

D. DeGraaf

 

September 21

For my second Pine River encounter in Isabella County, I find myself standing on the Pleasant Valley Rd. bridge as a gentle current moves south through a lush landscape. The midmorning temperature is in the mid 60’s under partly sunny, but hazy skies due to smoke being blown from massive wildfires on the west coast, some 2300 miles away. Nearby, while listening to a chorus of Orthopterans (Grasshoppers, Crickets & Katydids), I spot some bright red berries of Maple Leaf Viburnum and Clematis vines seeding out to where it gets the name, “Old Man’s Beard.” Next to the bridge, I notice a 1/8-inch Leafhopper on a Knapweed blossom as well as some honeybees moving among blossoms of white Aster. Climbing down along the bank, I come upon some Smartweed, displaying two different color blossoms, most likely an example of genetic polymorphism. Further ahead, I pause to scan a patch of Cinnamon ferns with dying fronds. Upon a closer view, I spot some of their dark spore stalks. Approaching the river’s edge, I stop to take in the scenic riparian landscape. Near my feet, I can hardly see a Green frog resting in the mud. Despite their name, these amphibians are not always green but come in a range of colors from beige, black, brown, yellow, blue and of course green. Working my way back, I come upon two plants with sticky burrs, Burdock and Cocklebur. Also, I notice some Ragweed that is seeding out. Despite its reputation as a source of hay fever, ragweed is surprisingly edible. There's evidence that Native Americans actually planted it and harvested the seeds. The seeds have a large percentage of crude protein. This would have been an important food source during long winters. A nutritious oil was also produced by crushing and boiling the seeds in water. Plant-based fats were almost unheard of, so ragweed oil was definitely anticipated and harvested each season. Interestingly enough, ragweed was also part of the early herbal pharmacy. The crushed leaves are astringent, so that makes them effective in treating bug bites and rashes. Modern science has also discovered that ragweed can help remove toxic heavy metals like lead from the soil. The plants can help clear up industrial waste and improve the soil. Finally, another visit complete, I head for home.

 

I welcome these days

When Egrets pass through

Creeper leaves glow red

Their berries shine blue

I welcome the sun

On its annual descent

Geese are gathering

The meadow is spent

I welcome the morning

Cool and clear

I welcome autumn

Happy it’s here!

 

D. DeGraaf

September 14

It was last April when I began to follow the Pine River from its terminus in Midland County. While traveling upstream through Midland, Gratiot and Montcalm counties, I made 20 stops to explore the channel and its ecosystems. On this chilly, overcast morning, I’m at stop 21 in Isabella County pausing on the Fremont Rd. bridge to watch the river flow gently south along the edge of Coldwater Rd. Working my way along the bank, I notice some red Virginia Creeper leaves and a young Cocklebur plant. Since its burs get hopelessly tangled in the hair and fur of mammals, this is a plant to be avoided. Also, every part of it is extremely toxic to mammals and has caused many a death to livestock. Further along, I spot some Common Nettle plants loaded with green seeds. Despite the leaves causing skin to itch and burn if touched, the seeds are quite edible. They are tasty, crunchy and full of oil high in polyunsaturated fatty acids - predominantly linoleic and linolenic acids that our bodies use to make essential fatty acids. Just ahead, as a gust of wind from the north passes through, I observe the swaying blossoms of Joe-Pye Weed, some seeding out and a contracted flower head of Queen Anne’s Lace (Wild Carrot) that has a cage-like appearance. Grabbing the flower head and spreading it open with my fingers, I’m not surprised to find a ½-inch spotted caterpillar, larva of the Carrot-seed Moth (stock photo). This moth was first noticed in Midwestern North America in 2002. Some researchers suggest that it may have hitchhiked on a trans-Atlantic vessel that ended up at a Great Lakes port. Other sights along the bank include blossoms of White Turtlehead and Blue Vervain as well as the spiny 2-inch fruit of Wild Cucumber. Although this plant is related to the familiar, domestic vegetable, the prickly “cucumbers” are not edible. Nearby, I spot blossoms of Sky-blue Aster among Canadian Goldenrod and a large Goldenrod flower or bunch gall. This dense leaf growth is caused by a midge larva that disturbs normal leaf development. Continuing along the bank, I notice a Michigan Lily plant that once displayed its colorful blossoms (stock photo) has gone to seed, now displaying 1½ inch pods. Venturing off the main trail, I pass an Autumn Olive bush with some ripe fruit and then proceed through dense undergrowth back to the river’s edge. From here, I find my way back to the car and head for home. 

Seasons are changing

Nature gives and takes

One landscape fades

Another one awakes

Takes leaves of green

Gives us those of red

Takes away the flowers

Gives us seeds instead

Takes a redwing’s song

Gives us a cricket’s call

Takes away summer

Replaces it with fall

 

D. DeGraaf

September 7

Within a remote section of the Edmore State Game Area in Montcalm County as a bright morning sun and cool temperatures accompany me, I descend a steep, wooded bank toward another encounter with the Pine River. At the water’s edge, I pause to take in the quiet beauty of this riparian landscape as well as spot bird tracks on a small sandbar midstream. Based on the size, shape and location of the tracks, they appear to be those of a Bald Eagle. Away from the river, I come upon tiny blossoms of Virginia Knotweed, Blue-stem Goldenrod and the web funnel of a Wolf spider near the top of a Canadian Goldenrod plant. As the wind picks up, I gaze skyward at the dense, broadleaf canopy while in the lush understory I notice blossoms of Blue Lobelia and Cardinal flower. Next, I move into a soggy, peninsula-like floodplain, created by a sharp curve in the channel, where I observe a clump of Panicle Asters beginning to bloom and scattered blossoms of Nodding Bur Marigold. Nearby, on a small patch of mud, animal tracks catch my attention including raccoon and a meandering beetle. Another patch reveals a sitting, 1½-inch Wood frog, well-camouflaged against the muddy ground. Further along, a ½-inch Robber fly and a 1-inch Crane fly are seen basking on separate leaves. Despite rumors to the contrary, the Crane fly is neither a predator of mosquitoes nor a colossal mosquito. They spend most of their life as larvae (stock photo) living underwater in streams and rivers. These insects emerge as adults for a quick mating spree before dying. Since they have no mouthparts, they do not eat during their short, 2-week life. Turning around, I climb out of the floodplain and begin making my way back toward the car when I spot the red berry cluster of False Solomon Seals. Next, I witness a Crane fly flailing mightily to escape a spider web. This struggle to survive applies to all life forms and plays out constantly in the natural world. After watching it for about 20 seconds, the Crane fly gets away. Near the car, I notice some Ragweed, whose pollen is a major source of air borne allergies this time of year even though most people blame it on Goldenrod. Back in the car, I reflect on my river journey so far as I leave Montcalm County and soon move upstream into Isabella County.

They brought the river and me 

out of the doldrums of winter 

with their shrills of delight, 

and flights of flashing orange.

Perching, nesting in the cattails

brought beauty to our summer.

Today, a void, sadness of heart,

our blackbirds headed south,

heeding nature’s call.

I long for their return next year

so, we can share our lives again.

 

D. DeGraaf

August 31

A few hours after an early morning thunderstorm, I pause under mostly cloudy skies to view the swollen Pine River as it flows swiftly from north to south under the Schmied Rd. bridge, 4 miles north of Vestaburg in Montcalm County. After being away for a few weeks, I resume my quest to explore the river at access points upstream to its source near Remus in Mecosta County.  Along the east bank, I spot an Elm tree with discolored leaves. This dead tissue along the edge of the leaves is a condition called Bacterial Leaf scorch or marginal leaf burn. This symptom develops when sufficient water does not reach the leaf margin cells because bacteria invade and plug the water conducting vessels (xylem) in the plant. Further along,  I notice a large patch of blossoming Goldenrod along with a chorus of crickets. Upon closer look, I can see both Canadian and Lanced-leaf goldenrod in the mix as well as some Heath aster in bloom. Nearby, I come upon a showy, 1- inch Milkweed Tussocks Moth caterpillar that will eventually transform into a 1-inch moth (stock photo). With a few drops of rain falling, I make my way back to the river’s edge and pause to look and listen as the water flows by. Moving away from the bank into the muddy floodplain, I hardly notice a 1-inch Wood frog as it blends well against the dark colored ground. Up ahead, I observe a small patch of Smartweed as well as an immature, 8-inch Garter snake, alert to my presence. As the sun breaks through the clouds, I make my way back across the bridge into the dense understory near the west bank where I see a few Green-headed Coneflowers as well as a patch of Water Hemlock, one of the deadliest poisonous plants in North America. It contains a toxin called cicutoxin, a violent convulsant, which acts as a stimulant in the central nervous system. Ingestion of any part of the plant can be fatal, with symptoms occurring from 15 minutes to 6 hours afterward. Turning around and making my way back to the car, I pass by Jewelweed and Wild Cucumber in bloom as well as a 16-inch diameter Cottonwood tree trunk that had been gnawed on by a Beaver awhile ago. While the task was incomplete, I notice the V-shaped cut was made on the correct side of the trunk that would allow the huge tree to fall directly into the river. Finally, back to the car for my 17-mile trip to my Alma home.

On the edge of August,

the river welcomes me back

with her late summer songs.

Duet of Cicadas buzz from

willow tops. Gentle current

babbles softly over bottom boulders.

Immersed in duckweed, Green frogs

strum their stuff. Kingfisher

calls from above while patrolling

water below. Familiar tunes 

celebrate my riparian reunion.

 

D. DeGraaf

August 24

The mid-morning is mostly sunny with temperatures in the upper 60’s as Caroline and I explore one of many sand dunes on the southeast shore of Beaver Island (stock photo). We begin by following a trail over the densely forested back dune dominated by mature conifers including: White Cedar, White Spruce, White Pine and Canadian Hemlock displaying their 1-inch, male cones. Along the way, I spot some dense Foliose lichens clinging to dead cedar branches as well as withering Cup fungi clinging to a decaying trunk. As sunlight penetrates the canopy, illuminating the undulating trail before us, we listen to the summer song of a Cicada. Leaving the shaded back dune, I begin to explore a wide-open transition zone where I come upon patches of Ground juniper displaying clusters of blue berries. Grand Rapids based Long Road Distillers harvests berries like these from Beaver Island as an ingredient in making their famous gin called MICHIGIN. Nearby, Bearberry groundcover shows off its red, edible berries. When eaten raw, they are dry, mealy, and almost tasteless. On the other hand, cooking them brings out their natural sweetness, making them taste similar to cranberries. Still within the transition zone, I see: a couple of Monarch butterflies fluttering about, a Spotted Skimmer dragonfly and a Painted Lady butterfly, barely visible perching next to some Star grass. Also, within this zone, I spot a few blossoms of Hoary Puccoon and seed heads of Sand Reed grass waving in the refreshing lake breeze. Moving ahead to the foredune, I notice the dried seed pods of Dune thistle, a single blossom of Beach Pea and one of several 1½-inch Seaside grasshoppers resting on the sand between flights. The foredune also displays a Monarch caterpillar feeding on a Milkweed leaf and a Monarch chrysalis hanging from a blade of Beach grass. This pupa stage in the butterfly’s life cycle takes 10-14 days. The darkening color of this one indicates it is more than halfway in its metamorphosis to an adult. After completing my dune hike, I make my way down to the water’s edge to join Caroline as she searches the beach for attractive stones.

On a soft, sandy cushion I stand before

her as seagulls bob on rolling swells and

expanse of her water reaches the horizon afar.

High above, an Eagle soars in search of a 

Small Mouth while below, a stiff westerly 

pushes whitecaps into view. From an azure sky, 

midday sunlight reflects on her glistening liquid 

with its layers of turquoise and navy-blue 

while the shore beats a rhythm of lapping waves.

A farewell panorama of the great Michigan Lake 

that clears my mind for challenges ahead.

 

D. DeGraaf

August 17

The weather is pleasant and Lake Michigan water is calm as I take an early morning stroll along the eastern shore of Beaver Island. Immediately, the beach surface reveals tracks of a seagull, a fellow human as well as a fresh 12-inch Carp carcass. Up ahead, I notice blossoms of Huron Tansy and one of many fallen trees, evidence of shoreline erosion due to record high lake levels. The latest observed value of 579.82 ft is the highest recorded level in Lake Michigan since July of 1998 (stock photo). Continuing north, I come upon another result of high lake levels-shoreline flooding which has created a temporary pond that is now a flourishing habitat for wildlife, including a Solitary Sandpiper, a toothpick-thin Bluet Damselfly, an Autumn Meadowhawk Dragonfly and even dozens of Mosquitoes. Along the water’s edge, I spot blossoms of Yarrow, Water Horehound as well as a ½-inch American Toad, hopping through flood debris. Nearby, I come upon, blossoms of Harebell and Bladder Campion as well as a Milkweed plant teeming with ½-inch, baby Tussock Moth caterpillars. After glancing toward the lake at the rising sun, I proceed north and pause to take in the scenic coastal landscape. Just ahead, a resting White Admiral butterfly catches my eye as well as a feeding Northern Flicker. Turning around to retrace my path, I spot one of dozens of Monarch Butterflies either perching like this one or fluttering along the beach. Also, I see a young willow tree with fresh Pinecone Galls while in the distance, seagulls gather near shore. At my feet, I’m fascinated as a Blue Mud Wasp struggles to drag a stung spider toward its nest. This amazing insect is able to land on a spider web without getting entangled and pluck it to simulate an insect in distress. When the spider rushes to capture its prey, it becomes the victim of the wasp’s paralyzing sting and is drug to its mud nest. Once at the nest, the wasp stores the paralyzed spider at the bottom of a mud cell (stock photo) and lays a single egg onto its body. When the wasp larva hatches it consumes the remaining body of the spider. Just before reaching my destination, I pause to notice a couple of Monarch caterpillars feeding on Milkweed leaves. Finally, I make it back to our lakefront rental for morning coffee and conversation.

Beach hike in nature’s realm

horizon greets the rising sun.

Beams bounce across the lake

to warm my sandy trail.

Pace to the rhythm of waves 

that lap along the shore.

Up ahead, sandpipers run,

gulls and terns soar above.

Just another quarter mile

barefoot on Beaver Isle

 

D. DeGraaf